Of Castles And Carparks And Cruising The Countryside

On Wednesday we headed home (home to my daughter's, not home home), but not before making stops in two nearby towns. We mentioned to someone at the hotel that we were going to Harrogate and he said we should stop in Knaresborough which is right on the way. He said it was a cute little village with an aqueduct and we'd probably enjoy it. 

He didn't mention the ancient castle. 

Back in the 1170's Hugh de Morville and his followers took refuge in this village after assassinating Thomas Becket. 

The castle was taken in 1644 during the Civil War and mostly destroyed in 1648 because of an order from Parliament to dismantle all Royalist castles. 

Many of the buildings in the town center are built from 'castle stone'. 

Knaresborough is a market and spa town on the river Nidd. Discoveries in the area lead researchers to believe there was a strong Roman presence in the area, and Knaresborough is mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086. 

We walked through the market, the first one held here was in 1206, and then over to the castle ruins for a look inside? 

You do go inside but technically the inside is also outside now as it's just the ruins. 

The docent at the castle said we shouldn't miss the river walk so we climbed down another million stone stairs (I'm getting my steps without even trying this trip!) and got a closer look at the bridge too. 

There were homes and cafes along the water, and after walking a bit we trudged back up the hill and got in the car to make the short drive on to Harrogate. 

If you know my hubs you know he has great style. There's a men's shop in Harrogate he follows online so when we realized we'd be nearby we decided to see it in person. He and the owner chat back and forth from time to time so we were hoping to meet him. 

Harrogate is another spa town and the greenspace when you enter is amazing. The shop owner told hubs it's a 200 acre public parkland surrounding the city center and it's so pretty. We ate lunch at a spot called Farmhouse and both ordered Japanese bowls. They had a lot of breakfast type dishes on the menu, which I guess is where the name came from, but we both thought the Asian flavors in the bowls were fantastic!

I didn't take a picture of the bowl but I did snap one of the pretty tea service. 

Hubs did not have tea lol. 

We walked to the shop after lunch, and had the nicest time chatting with the gentleman working there. The owner was out and messaged hubs later he was sorry to miss us. 

Of course there was a shop dog who looked a lot like our pup at home and who we're missing. We take pictures of dogs. We can't help it. 

They had the most beautiful robes in this shop and I was thinking hey, maybe I'll get one for hubs for Christmas, but then I saw the price and-yowza!! I won't even print it here because you wouldn't believe it, but this particular company made the silk robes worn in Downton Abbey and these are similar if that gives you a clue.

We made it back to Cambridge in time for dinner with 'the kids' and the kid's kids and it felt good to be back in our home away from home. 

One of my favorite things about traipsing around England is discovering villages I'd never heard of until now. The small villages here all seem to hold some beauty, some historic significance, and usually an amazing church or cathedral. Plus you traverse lots of gorgeous English countryside to get to them and that's worth all the stress of driving on single track roads with signs saying two way traffic?!, and carparks that require super sharp 90 degree angled turns into spaces so narrow you have to slither out of your seat sideways. 

In the words of Oliver Wendell Douglas...'Land spreadin' out so far and wide, Keep Manhattan just give me that countryside!' 

York-Day Two

Continuing my recap of our road trip to York, which will now be three posts instead of two. I have pictures and they all need to go somewhere. 

Maybe not all, but many. 

We started the day Tuesday with breakfast in Middlethorpe's gorgeous dining room. So civilized. China cups and a small silver coffee pot on our table. No styrofoam. No shouting. 

Small jars of jam with a little silver serving spoon, a silver toast server, a very quiet space...so lovely.

After breakfast we walked the garden and grounds around the hotel. They know how to trim hedges in this country. 

These beauties were growing right outside our entry-

Clemson colors so I had to snap a pic. 

Middlethorpe Hall was built for Thomas Barlow who was a prosperous master cutler. I had to look up the word cutler, but basically it is someone who makes cutlery. 

One thing travel shows you is there is a lot you don't know. 

Middlethorpe was also once the home of the famous diarist, Lady Mary Wortley Montague who is said to be one of the most remarkable women of the 18th century. 

She was a writer and poet and campaigned for the introduction of smallpox inoculation in the UK. 

Later it was the family home of Fanny Rollo Wilkinson who was the first female professional landscape gardener in England. Living here was partly what inspired her to pursue 'gardening' as a career. 

After our walk we left Middlethorpe Hall and drove about fifteen miles north to beautiful Castle Howard. 

You may recognize the facade from the film Brideshead Revisited, the Netflix series Bridgerton where the house doubled as the Duke of Hasting's country home, and the ITV drama Victoria where the house doubled as Kensington Palace. 

Construction of Castle Howard began in 1699 but took over 100 years to complete, spanning the lifetimes of three Earls. 

The final appearance of the house bears only a partial resemblance to the original vision and it suffered significant damage during a fire that occurred in 1940. 

The fire started in a chimney and quickly spread, destroying rooms in the basement, the main and upper levels, as well as the incredible dome which collapsed into the Great Hall. It wasn't until 1960 that the dome was rebuilt, and then thanks to the filming of Brideshead Revisited, the Garden Hall was also rebuilt. 

Most of these homes have their own chapel, and this is the one in Castle Howard-

As you stroll the grounds of these amazing properties you cannot help but think about the cost of  maintaining so much land, so many old buildings with their old wiring, old plumbing, and antiquated systems of heating, as well as valuable works of art that need protecting and care. 

I'm sure it's the main reason they open family homes to the public for a fee and we get to enjoy visiting. 

Also, these places need constant dusting. Can you imagine? 

We toured the house then walked the grounds which are extensive.

 Lots of footpaths through the woods, and a path to the lake which leads you to a boathouse (now cafe). 

We enjoyed a cuppa beside the water before heading back into York city center to walk the walls. 

Walking around atop the walls of a city is something I love to do when given the chance. 

As we were making our way to the wall we passed the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey-St. Mary's, first built in 1088. It was at one time one of the most prosperous abbeys in Northern England, and the original church on this site was founded in 1055, dedicated to Saint Olaf. 

St. Mary's was started by William the Conqueror to reinforce his hold on the north and ended by Henry the VIII as a consequence of his reformation of the church. 

Today you can see remains of the walls of the nave, where the monks prayed and sang, and the cloister where they washed their clothes and were allowed to speak. 

As we headed toward the stairwell hubs, with his eagle eye, spotted a gentleman standing with his wife and daughter, wearing a hat from our local hometown hockey team. Always fun to see a little reminder of home. We spoke briefly and I continue to marvel at what a small big world it really is. 

We climbed the stairs to the top of the wall and walked for a while before noticing a beautiful garden just below. We headed down to get a closer look and ended up going inside the property (Gray's Court Hotel). The weather wasn't quite as perfect as their garden, but the inside was lovely too, so we had some bubbly and a pint because hey, we're on holiday. 

Grays' Court was built on the site of a Roman fortress and has been continuously occupied since the 11th century-1091. Not as a hotel of course, but there's been something happening in this spot for close to 1000 years. 

Old takes on a whole new meaning on this side of the pond. 

Homing In On The Hodgepodge

In case you missed it yesterday...there will not be a Hodgepodge next week because moving
week day is finally here. I know you're all relieved-ha! Anyway, I'm going to do my best to post a Hodgepodge the week after, but Internet connections and all that jazz, so we'll have to see how things go. I'll at least post a message so you'll know for sure, but for now plan on no Hodgepodge on Wednesday, Nov. 2nd, hopefully a Hodgepodge on Nov. 9th, and definitely a Hodgepodge on Nov. 16th. 

Now back to today. Hodgepodge Day! Here are my answers to this week's questions. If you've played along add your link at the end of my post, then leave a comment for the blogger linking before you. We like to keep it friendly here on this side of the pond.

Here we go-

1. Besides your very own house, describe a place where you feel most 'at home'?

My mom's home? It was my childhood home so going back there for visits feels easy and natural. Also the water, the Chesapeake, and East Tennessee. 

2. When did you last 'hit a home run' with something? Explain.

The powder room in the new house. It started with hubs and I choosing a vessel sink we both liked, but then our decorator found a spectacular cabinet and she and I decided we needed a bigger sink to fit the dimensions of the piece as well as the French feel it adds to the room. And since she and I like drama in the powder room and time was of the essence we selected something fabulous while hubs was out of town-ha! 

I tried to describe the sink to him, but it came out (in his mind) sounding like a mixing bowl and he couldn't really get past that so my powder room sink has been referred to as the mixing bowl ever since.  It is not a mixing bowl. It looks nothing like a mixing bowl. I told hubs maybe he should step away from the powder room and channel his design energies into his garage. That I will handle the powder room and he will love it.  

He does. Oh my word, it's definitely a home run. We still need to hang the mirror (swoon!) and the window treatment, and once that happens I'll post a picture.  

3. Tell us about something you love in your house or kitchen that is 'homemade'.

I love the Christmas ornaments my girls made as they were growing up. I love pulling them out every year and remembering the sweetness of daughters in the house. 

4. 'A man's home is his castle'...which of the world's ten most captivating castles (according to The Travel Channel) would you most like to visit and why-

Mont Saint-Michel (France), Edinburgh Castle (Scotland), Neuschwanstein Castle (Germany), Glamis Castle (Scotland), Windsor Castle (England), Chateu de Chambord (France), Hampton Court Palace (England), Prague Castle (Prague), St. Michael's Mount (England), Leeds Castle (England), and Swallow's Nest (Ukraine)

This is a fun question. As it happens I've seen half the castles listed- Mont St.-Michel, Edinburgh Castle, Neuschwanstein Castle, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court Palace, and Leeds Castle. Windsor is my favorite btw.

That leaves half still to be seen, and of those I'm going with Chateau de Chambord because it's France and j'aime toutes les choses francaises. 

5. What's a recent or upcoming plan or project that's required you do a little homework before getting started? Did the homework cause you to abandon your plan or adjust it in some way?

We've done a tremendous amount of homework relating to various aspects of the house build, and narrowing it down to one thing would be tricky. Most recently might be the deck railing. We had something in mind, but after 'doing our homework' we made a change to the original plan and we're so happy with the result. Again I don't have a great pic, because they're wrapping up the exterior projects today and tomorrow, but here's a sneak peek-

6. In your opinion, is homework an unnecessary evil or a valuable practice? Should schools be done with homework? Why or why not?

I'm not a fan of giving homework for the sake of giving homework, and I do think excessive amounts of homework might be an unnecessary evil...BUT! Grasping new concepts and skills requires practice  and sometimes that means practice at home. Not all homework is a waste of time. 

7. Share a favorite memory of your childhood hometown. 

Wow-too many to narrow it down to one...ice skating on the Duck Pond, walking back and forth to the elementary school, riding my bike to the swim club, the Covered Bridge, breakfast at the local diner, trick or treating in the neighborhood...I could go on. And on and on. 

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Hodgepodge Questions-Volume 285

First things first...there will not be a Hodgepodge next week because whoohoo! I'm moving! It's only been 13+ months since we got started, but it looks like moving day is finally here. I will do my best to post a Hodgepodge the week after, but that may be dependent on the Internet fairies. I will post something so you'll know, but for now plan on no Hodgepodge Wednesday Nov 2nd, hopefully a Hodgepodge on Nov. 9th, and definitely a Hodgepodge on Nov. 16th.

This week though, there is a Hodgepodge and here are the questions. Answer on your own blog, then hop back here tomorrow to share answers with all your friends and neighbors.

1. Besides your very own house, describe a place where you feel most 'at home'? 

2. When did you last 'hit a home run' with something? Explain. 

3. Tell us about something you love in your house or kitchen that is 'homemade'. 

4. 'A man's home is his castle'...which of the world's ten most captivating castles (according to The Travel Channel) would you most like to visit and why-

Mont Saint-Michel (France), Edinburgh Castle (Scotland), Neuschwanstein Castle (Germany), Glamis Castle (Scotland), Windsor Castle (England), Chateau de Chambord (France), Hampton Court Palace (England), Prague Castle (Prague), St. Michael's Mount (England), Leeds Castle (England), and Swallow's Nest (Ukraine)

5. What's a recent or upcoming plan or project that's required you do a little homework before getting started? Did the homework cause you to abandon your plan or adjust it in some way?

6. In your opinion, is homework an unnecessary evil or a valuable practice? Should schools be done with homework? Why or why not? 

7. Share a favorite memory of your childhood hometown. 

8. Insert your own random thought here. 

So I Think I Was Talking About Portugal

Yes, still. I had one more day of traipsing around Portugal to recap here on the old blog, and then life rolled along, so today's the day.  You can read the whole thing beginning with the post found here. 

Three of the seven couples had to leave on Sunday, but the four couples remaining had a splendid day driving up the coast to a town called Sintra. 

The coast is stunning. 

Truly. We all said we'd love to come back and spend some time here, walking along the high coastal path and sitting in one of the many seaside cafes watching the waves roll in. Hubs wanted to get down on the wooden walkway hanging out over the sea, but we needed to be on our way, so I vetoed that idea. Plus I thought the higher portion looked questionably attached to the cliff, so it was back to the cars and on to our planned destination.   

The town of Sintra was much different than the area around Obidos, and the first thing you noticed was how lush it felt. Sintra is jam packed with castles in the cliffs, beautiful buildings in town, winding roads, narrow lanes, and wonderful shops and restaurants. No wonder it was a favorite summer retreat for the kings of Portugal. I'd liked to have had another day to explore here, but we take what we can get, right? First things first-espresso! Must fortify ourselves for the trek up the mountain.

Gosh I love these people. 

And also Portuguese espresso sipped while sitting in an ancient city square.

Since we had limited time here and so much to choose from, we opted to visit Parque da Pena, a palace and surrounding parkland built on the highest peaks of the Serra de Sintra. The castle ruins you see high on the hill in the picture above are not the ones we visited. They are a place I'd like to visit, but that will have to wait for another day. Castelos dos Mouros is a thousand year old Moorish castle, about a fifteen minute walk from our destination, Pena Palace. 

Pena Palace sits above the Moorish castle, and was built in the 19th century on the ruins of a monastery founded in the 16th century. Portugal's Prince Ferdinand was cousin to Bavaria's crazy King Ludwig (if you've been to Neuschwanstein you're familiar with him) and also England's Prince Albert, husband to Queen Victoria.   

Pena Palace is unusual in that when a Republic was declared back in 1910 the palace became a museum, and has been preserved exactly as it was when royals lived there, furnishings and all. 

The views are tremendous and you can ramble all over the castle and surrounding grounds, climb towers, and even sip a coffee or have lunch on the terrace.

Wandering around a castle is one of my favorite ways to spend an afternoon.

These four. 

They had themselves a little fun on the way down the mountain. We'd taken taxis to the top, but you had to ride the bus down or else hoof it, about thirty minutes along a steep path. One couple opted to walk, but not all of us had the proper footwear for hiking down so we got in the bus queue and waited. We had the bus timetable and three scheduled stop times came and went, still no bus. By now the queue had grown quite long and loud and a little restless, which made us wonder if a bus did eventually arrive would the crowd storm the doors? One of the guys managed to snag a taxi and suggested the girls ride down and the guys would walk and meet us below.

So we girls sat in a little outdoor restaurant and figured we'd have at least a thirty minute wait. Ha! We should know better than to underestimate their resourcefulness. We'd just gotten settled in our seats when the guys came round the corner laughing and singing. Turns out a very sweet young Italian couple took pity on them and picked them up part way down the mountain. The couple tuned their car radio to a station that played old 'American' music and they sang the whole way down.

You can always count on the Italians to love life wherever they are.

After a very late lunch we did a little shopping up and down the narrow streets of this charming city before heading back to the hotel to pack up. Sob.

I compartmentalize pretty well, and most days I just get on with things. This trip reminded me though, of how very much I miss my other life. Foreign cities and old buildings and new places and accents and languages not my own. A big wide amazing world that most days feels really far away from the New Jersey suburbs.

Don't misunderstand...I like the suburbs and I love America with all my heart, but still...sipping coffee on a castle terrace in the hills of Portugal makes me long just a little for all the world out there I'll never get to see.

Thirty years ago I never imagined I'd be that person who wants to see the world. In my mind those people were 'out there'...the fringe. They wore Birkenstock with thick socks and walked around airports with ginormous backpacks. They were adventurers, daring embracers of change and all things new.

But hey, did you know it's also possible to see the world with a too heavy great big suitcase checked through to your destination? To be a little bit adventurous and a little bit chicken all at the same time? To embrace change but insist on a few constants too?

 Trust me...it is.