Going Coastal

An alternative title might be 'How I broke my elbow on the coast of California', but I'll let you decide. 

Day 6-Cambria to Carmel 

The day started with a 9 am tour of Hearst Castle in nearby San Simeon. George Hearst traveled his land on horseback but his son William Randolph grew tired of camping so he built a 'little something on the hill' and now we have buses and tickets and tour guides to help us along. 

Entry to the property today is with a timed ticket and a bus ride from the visitors center (located just off the highway) all the way up the mountain to the house itself. 

What an incredible place to call home. 

While a visit to this remarkable 'castle' sounded like it might be a little too touristy, hubs and I both really enjoyed seeing this amazing property and hearing the story behind its construction.  

The house is over the top in terms of decor and detail, not to mention the views which are absolutely stunning. 

Before leaving San Simeon we stopped at the nearby state park to see the sea lions who call this beach home. 

These are not creatures we see lounging on the East Coast beaches and it feels a little bit amazing to stand so close and watch them sunbathe. 

It was another ideal convertible day, perfect for a drive on the twisting-turning coastline road that runs through Big Sur.

We spent most of the day with our mouths agape at the magnificence of the coastal seascape and the natural beauty that is everywhere you look. I really am beginning to get why people live here. 

We stopped for lunch in one of the few restaurants we passed on this stretch of highway (The Whale Watchers Cafe) and then made another stop to see McWay Falls. You couldn't get back as far as we would have liked because some of the cliff was perilously close to falling into the sea!! and was roped off. McWay is an 80 foot high waterfall that drops right into the beach beside the Pacific and pictures do not do it justice.

We arrived in the picturesque town of Carmel late afternoon and after checking in to our hotel set out to explore the area. We walked to the beach, browsed the shops, and had a drink in a little bar tucked away in one of the many nooks and crannies this town possesses. The bar owner recommended his favorite Italian restaurant for dinner so we headed there next. We find the locals generally know what they're talking about and he did not steer us wrong. (La Balena) Fresh pasta in the garden with wonderful service and a most delicious tiramisu for dessert. 

Carmel left its mark, in more ways than one actually. We were walking to breakfast the next morning, struggling to find the address we'd been given, both of us looking up, when I somehow caught my foot on what I guess was a low landscaping curb around a tree in the middle of the sidewalk. 

Honestly I don't even know how the next few seconds happened, but down I went in grand fashion, breaking my glasses, bruising my cheek, scraping both hands, skinning my leg, and evidently fracturing my elbow although I didn't realize it at the time. 

I was shaken up for sure and I took a little inventory of all my body parts before getting up. I was most concerned about my cheek which was throbbing and especially my broken glasses because we weren't heading home for three more days. 

I wanted to cry and maybe I did, mostly over the broken glasses, but I did pick myself up, or maybe hubs picked me up???, and we went into the restaurant. They kindly brought me a bag of ice for my cheek and I cleaned my bleeding hands before mentioning to hubs that my forearm was pretty sore although nothing actually felt broken.

I texted my daughters because I knew they would be sympathetic, but also because my oldest is married to an orthopedic surgeon. He was out of town so after a series of texts relayed through her, questions asked about moving all my fingers and level of numbness, etc he recommended I find a doctor and get checked out. 

That all sounded like a lot so we got in the car and drove to Half Moon Bay to meet up with our friends and see their daughter get married instead. 

I should've listened to the doctor major. 

I have a non-displaced fracture which thankfully did not require surgery. Personally I think walking around with it broken for three days, dancing albeit cautiously, and maybe that lemon drop I sipped at the reception all helped keep it from becoming too stiff as broken elbows tend to do. 

We're almost home in terms of these posts. We still have the wedding, Sausalito, and the orthopedist coming up. In that order. Oops!

The End Of The Oregon Trail (Post #7)

Remember how I went on a trip a month ago and how I was going to tell you about it?
I'm almost done.

Almost.

Days 5 and 6-Newport Oregon to Cannon Beach ( 121 miles)

Let's first discuss the weather. It was abysmal. But we didn't complain because we had fabulous weather most of the trip and we'd come prepared with the proper outerwear. When we got to Washington State it was gorgeous again and no we haven't gotten to Washington in the recap yet, but it's coming. In fact that's next and then it's back to everyday ordinary life here on this side of the pond.

 

Before leaving Newport hubs and I had a hearty breakfast (we could easily have split an omelette they were that big!)  at a spot recommended by Josh over at California Through My Lens. It was called The Coffee Shop and is right on the harbor in Newport. I'm so glad we didn't miss this wonderful little cafe with friendly service and delicious food.

Our server very helpfully pointed us to the best lookout for sea lion watching which we so appreciated because y'all...

These sea lions!

So adorable and so adorably noisy.



About eight miles up the road from Newport you come to an area known as The Devils Punch Bowl. As we pulled up we debated about getting out for a look because the weather was that bad, but oh wow!

So worth getting drenched and blown by the wind. The waves churn and swirl in this natural rock 'bowl' which scientists believe was formed when two caves collapsed. As we were sitting in our car a couple pulled up beside us wondering what to do and we said definitely go for it.

Also, they were British so we had a lovely little chin wag there in the parking lot at Devil's Punch Bowl, which is what we do whenever we run into travelers from across the pond. We let ourselves feel all the feels.

We braved the weather a little further up the road for a stop at the Rocky Creek State Scenic Viewpoint. Hubs kept telling me not to back up for fear I'd be blown into the wild sea.

It was a distinct possibility.

If you drive the Oregon coast road do not miss this lookout. Here you stand in quiet awe at the mighty power of the Pacific. It's absolutely incredible! If you're here at the right time of year you might even be lucky enough to see gray whales as they travel south to warmer waters.

We left Rocky Creek and carried on up the road to the village of Depoe Bay. What a cute little town with equally cute shops that were fun for browsing. We did a little of that here too. While it's reported to be the world's smallest navigable harbor the manner in which the surf crashes is anything but tiny-

Standing on the bridge is a little like the feeling you have on the log flume at Disney, and almost as much fun.

Not gonna lie. We were ready to get out of the rain and anxious to get to our hotel and warm up. We arrived in Cannon Beach mid afternoon, so happy to see a fireplace in our room. We kept it running the two days we were there and it was wonderful.

We loved this hotel- The Ocean Lodge... I mean they have homemade cookies and a complimentary glass of wine upon check in so really what's not to love? The Ocean Lodge is charming yet modern, with so many darling nooks and crannies and comfy spots for sitting, reading, and breakfasting.

The beach outside your door is none too shabby either.

If you're familiar with the movie Goonies (also Point Break and Twilight) you might recognize this locale. These Haystack rocks are magnificent and pictures do not do the crashing surf justice. It pounds over these rocks as if they were tiny pebbles.

We spent two nights here, relaxing, running out to the beach between rain bursts to gawk at the beauty, shopping in the charming village, and eating some wonderful meals. People we met while traveling had recommended The Bistro so we ate dinner there the first night.

We loved the cozy, intimate French atmosphere and the food was delicious. On Friday we had a nice pub lunch (and break from the rain) in town at Bill's and that evening had reservations at a popular venue called The Irish Table, which definitely lived up to it's reputation.

Before dinner we popped into the little place next door to The Irish Table, also well known and well loved by the locals in Cannon Beach. It's called The Hardware Store and is part hardware store/part pub hence it's affectionate nickname The Screw and Brew. It was a fun place and we were almost wishing we could stay for dinner, but in the end were glad we didn't miss The Irish Table.

From Cannon Beach we drove another 80 miles into Portland which I wrote a little bit about here, and from Portland drove another 126 miles to my grandson. I mean Washington. I'll wrap up with that tomorrow.

You're relieved I know.
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The Oregon Trail (Post #5)

Yes I'm still recapping our trek up the northern California and Oregon Coasts. Catch up by following the links here-Post 1 (San Francisco To Mendocino), Post 2 (Mendocino continued), Post 3 (Mendocino to Eureka), and Post 4 (Eureka CA to Brookings OR)

Day 4-Brookings Oregon to Newport Oregon (233 miles)

Hubs suggested today I not take ten times longer to write about the trip than we actually spent on the trip, but finding time to blog these days is a real challenge. Life is so busy, but I'm determined to take you all the way to Washington with me. Figuratively speaking I mean.

When last we spoke we were crossing the California State Line into Oregon, aka The Beaver Sate. For the record we did not see any beavers, but we did see plenty of seals and sea lions which more than made up for it.

Also, this day may end up being two posts. We shall see.

Before we leave Brookings let me back up and mention our hotel there. We stayed in the Best Western Beachfront Inn and enjoyed the view from our room and the fact that we could walk across the street for a seafood dinner while watching the sunset.

We're all about seafood, sunsets, and great views no matter where we roam.

We had breakfast at the hotel, but took our coffee out to the beach so we could watch the waves crash and rage. The Pacific Ocean packs a punch and the rocky shoreline helps.

While hubs was checking out I managed to set off the car alarm in the rental vehicle which I'm sure was a treat for all those non-early risers. Sorry! Good morning sleepyheads!

Let me preface these next few miles by saying this stretch of highway has to be one of the prettiest stretches in all of America. It's called the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor and is twelve miles of lush green forests and rugged coastline. There are many well marked view points here and it was hard not to stop at them all.

The skies were foggy early on and we worried we might miss some of the natural beauty we'd read about, but eventually the fog lifted and we didn't miss a thing. I thought the early fog made everything feel ethereal.

Natural Bridges-

Reminded us so much of one of our favorite spots on the English coastline, Durdle Door. Sigh.

Arch Rock-

Pretty much just walk out to the overlook and let your jaw drop. Stunning!

When you reach the end of the scenic twelve mile stretch there is still plenty of scenic highway in front of you, it's just not part of the official Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor.

Sometimes you feel like you're going to drive right into the Pacific.

We spent quite a bit of time at a place called Pistol Rock feeling like the only people on earth.

The size is positively staggering...makes you want to stay all day.

We didn't.
But we definitely could have.

It was real rain (our first in five days) by the time we arrived in the town of Port Orford, so we opted to have lunch at Redfish. Now let us pause for a moment and give this clam chowder it's due-

Hubs and I agree this was the best clam chowder we have ever eaten ever ever ever. They drizzle it with a little chili oil (I think), and it's garnished with whole fresh clams in the shell that were so good. Definitely one of my favorite bites of the 1057 miles we traversed.

We took a short six mile route off the main coastal road in order to visit the Cape Blanco Lighthouse.

A guide takes you inside and up, and shares a lot of information about both the lighthouse and the life of a keeper.

Can you tell it was windy?

Did you know there are sand dunes in Oregon? Miles and miles of dunes that go on for what feels like forever, but in reality is only about 40 miles. Of course 40 miles of sand dunes is nothing to sneeze at, but since the weather was rainy and really windy we opted not to get out and explore. Hubs especially would have loved more time here, but we tended to linger a little long in some of the earlier places, and we didn't want to miss the Sea Lion Caves.

Our road trip philosophy is this-don't be in such a hurry to tick things off a list that you miss taking in all that is right where you are. We said from the start that if we were somewhere and loving it we would stay as long as we wanted to stay and that's what we did. Mostly what we were seeing was nature showing off which has no operating hours to work around, but there were a few things that required arriving before closing time, and the caves were one such spot.

The Sea Lion Caves sit at a literal bend in the road, with a parking area across the street. Not much traffic so you just run across to the entrance.

Now y'all know that no trip of mine is complete until I've been forced to endure some sort of small confined space that makes me breathe a little too fast, be it a gondola hanging over the tea plantations of Taiwan or an elevator inside a mountain taking you down into the dark where sea lions nest.

So that's what we did. We rode the elevator down down down through the mountain and stepped out into this amazing sea lion cave, a privately owned wildlife preserve and bird sanctuary. This is the largest (known) sea cave in America, and home to the stellar sea lion, although they aren't always present. This isn't a zoo and the animals are free to come and go at will. If the sea lions aren't in residence you're given a discounted entry price and a rain ticket for a return trip within the year at no charge.

It was hard to get good photos from under the mountain! plus they have a guard fence around the rocky ledge so nobody accidentally goes for a swim! but we enjoyed our visit.

 sea lion fossil 

You really need to see this spot in the spring or summer when there might be hundreds here, but the cave itself is cool. Definitely worth the slow ride down on an elevator that gives you zero frame of reference as to how many 'floors' you've traveled and how many you have left before the doors open and you can breathe again.

Also, you get a fantastic view of the Heceta Head Lighthouse from the depths of this cave.

And bonus, the fog was back so we caught the light as it made it's way around and around, warning boaters of the dangerously rocky coast.

We're almost to Newport so I'm going to stop here for now. We had a really interesting dinner in Newport and I want to say more than a line or two about that. This was our longest day of driving, but we agreed we wouldn't change the itinerary. The stopping points worked well for us given what we wanted to see along the way. Some of the little towns you pass through lack accommodations so we were happy with our mileage plan.

Tomorrow-Newport Oregon and close encounters of the Apollo kind.