Hang on a minute...

I'm breaking from my Asia theme just for today so I can write about the Easter weekend.  I want to remember that too-

H is for How becomes the weekends go so fast?

Yes I do know that sentence is grammatically incorrect but when our girls were little they always began a question with the words, "How becomes...?" and it's kinda stuck.

Daughter2 graduates from uni in less than one month.  AAACK!  How did that happen? I'm telling you, when your kids hit the college years time kicks into supersonic speed. She's been home on Easter break since Wednesday and we've had the nicest visit.  This girl has a lot to say and so does her mother so essentially it's a talk fest.  We've also done some shopping and been to the movies and of course she's done some baking.

Pistachio cupcakes with buttercream icing for Easter dessert.  So pretty and spring-y and most importantly, delish!

Daughter1 arrived by train after work on Friday evening and since we were practically there we drove on in to the city for dinner.  By city I mean NYC,  just in case you're new here.  Hubs took his three favorite girls to his #1 favorite steak house in the Big Apple-Sparks Steakhouse.  Sparks bills itself as the 'Fort Knox of Fine Aged Prime Beef' and that sounds about right.  Their steaks are soooo good and the atmosphere is lively. I love the city at night!   Be forewarned, there  is no 'petite' option on their menu which is why we had steak and eggs before church on Sunday.  And also why our pup had a great weekend too.  Here's something-back in the mid 1980's a very well known mob guy by the name of Paul Castellano was killed on the orders of John Gotti right in front of Sparks.  How's that for trivia?

Saturday was supposed to be sunny and not too cold so we'd planned to take a picnic up to Highpoint.   It was clear enough to see the George Washington Bridge from the observation deck.  We're about 50+ miles from the GW here.

We gave it a go but it was ridiculously windy so we gave up and came home.

On our way out of the park we ran into a group of people doing some trailing with their Bloodhounds.  Too cute and oh my stars, the howling.

Our pup was naturally above it all and behaved like a complete lady.  She kinda rolled her eyes in that 'boys will be boys' sort of way and got on with the business of stalking birds.

Here is how she spent her Easter Sunday-

Waiting ever so patiently for a groundhog to appear.  Or a chipmunk.  Or a stray plastic bag.  Whatever.

We baked the cupcakes and made these cute little bird nests I'd seen on Debbie's blog and then we pulled out the egg dye because you're never too old.  

Someone likes to get her craft on when we pull out the egg dye.

Just sayin'.

Hubs grilled fish for dinner and daughter1 worked on tweaking my blog a little.

Nothing too major, just some reorganizing, streamlining, and tidying up.  I am in awe of her technical skills since mine are essentially non-existent.  Plus she is super cute.

Easter dawned sunny and bright and we had baskets for the girls.  The same baskets they've had since they were toddlers.  They are sentimental like their parents.  The baskets this year were not up to their usual standards because the Easter Bunny is still feeling the effects of jet lag, but the girls were happy just the same.  We went to church and sang my most favorite hymns and my heart felt full and then came home to endure some picture taking.

Hey, we're not all four in the same place at the same time too often so you do what you must.  Our dog insisted on getting in the way and we laughed a lot.

We put the ham in the oven and daughter2 made the squash casserole and deviled eggs.

We lazed a little on the patio while everything heated up.
Lounging on the patio is a weekend must-do.

We had a wonderful salad to start which I will definitely make again.  You'll find the recipe here.

After dishes were done hubs hit the recliner to watch some golf because Mr. Easter Bunny is also a little bit jet lagged still. The girls and I played Bananagrams while the clock ticked.  6 PM came too soon.  It always does.  Hubs headed out with Daughter1 back to the train station (weren't we just there???) and we all felt the small sting of sadness that pricks your heart at the end of a family weekend.  It helps to know we'll all be together for graduation and then a week at the beach right after.  An entire week.  I cannot wait.

How becomes my girls have to grow up and live so far away?
How becomes they're so sweet?

How becomes I got lucky enough to be their momma?

Greenspace

I love cities.  I love the energy and the people watching and the food and all there is to see and do in a city.  But I need my greenspace. When I'm in a city I'm always looking for the places you can go to get away from the noise and the crowds.  Hubs and I spent a lovely lazy few hours meandering through one such space in Shanghai.  

G is for Garden

Yuyuan Garden 

Or Yu Garden as it is more commonly known.

The rain stopped and we soaked in the beauty that was all around.  

The roof lines here are their own form of poetry.

The gardens were completed in 1577 by an officer of the Ming Dynasty named Pan Yunduan. Nothing like a trip to China to remind you of all you don't know when it comes to history.

Pan Yunduan built the gardens so his parents would have a beautiful and peaceful space to spend their later years.   

I hope my girls are reading this.   

 

The garden has gone through many changes in the course of its 400+ year history.  It had fallen into a state of ruin and in the early 1700's some wealthy merchants purchased the garden and made improvements so a portion could be opened to the public. 

Lots of detail and intricate carving mark the Chinese rooftops.

During the Opium Wars of the 1800's the garden again fell into disrepair and many of the original structures were destroyed.  They were eventually repaired by the Chinese government in the late 1950's and were opened to the public once again in 1961.  

Head of the Dragon Wall...the rest of him tops the wall that wraps round the garden.  

Yu Garden is divided into six scenic areas and sits on about five acres which feels like much more.  

The serenity and ancient design are in stark contrast to the ultra modern towering skyline of Shanghai sitting just beyond its walls.

Zig Zag Bridge

Jade Rock

A picture perfect day in old Shanghai.

Happy Feet

Today's post is brought to you by the letter F.
F is for foot massage.

But first there was tea.

I'm doing my best to write about the trip in something that resembles chronological order but there may be a day or two out of whack.  Hubs and I spent our first full day in Shanghai roaming around the city together.  The planets were all correctly aligned in the solar system which meant he could take a day of vacation before diving in to his work commitments.

No, his job has nothing to do with outer space.
He just works a lot.

This was not hubs first trip to Shanghai so he helped me get acclimated some before I had to manage the days on my own.  Here's a little secret...I like having someone else read the map,  figure out the exchange rate, and determine which way to travel on a subway.  Just sayin'.

It was drizzling a little when we left the hotel so we started our day trying to find a particular tea shop hubs had visited on a previous trip. This particular shop has tea on one side and pearls on the other. What's not to love?

We were in an area of the city known as Yu Gardens (when the letter G rolls around tomorrow guess what I'll be writing about?) and it was chock a block full of tea shops of every size and variety.  Course we needed to meander around several blocks...

past the McDonalds ...

and no less than 30 dried fish stalls...

and then down a little alley and up a flight of stairs to the one he knew.

I think afternoon tea is one of life's little necessities and I was anxious to sample some of the varieties on offer in the country where it originated.   We were seated at a small table and our hostess gave us a menu describing the taste and benefits of many different teas.  She said we could choose four to sample.

Many of the teas are said to benefit your health in some way....hmmm....do I need to remove heat from my body, aid digestion, or boost energy?  All of the above please.

Correctly brewing, pouring and serving the tea is a real art.

As is making a purchase afterwards.

Wait, what was today's letter?
F.  Foot massage.

I'll get there.  After the tea shop we headed to the gardens and after all that walking hubs declared we needed a foot massage.  Shanghai is known for this and there are places all over the city, but of course hubs knew a place so that's where we headed.

I have to say, this was one of the best things ever.  The salon was so calm and quiet and a little bit dark and there was soft music playing.  They took us into a room with big comfy chairs that you sunk yourself into, after you've put on your pink flowered pajama pants.  I'll spare you a picture of hubs in his.  And of course they served you tea and a plate of fresh fruit because we're in China remember?  The foot massage started at the top of my head and she worked a knot out of my shoulder that I'm pretty sure has been there since 1975.    It was bliss.

So this was Day 2.
And only a part of Day 2.
I sure hope 26 posts will be enough.

E is for Explore

If you only knew how overwhelming it is trying to condense all my many words and pictures into something coherent.  I'm trying not to make the posts too long but gracious there is a lot to say.  

E is for Explore.  

Just not too loudly, please.  

Although I was foot loose and fancy free while in China,  hubs did have some work obligations which meant I was left to wander around on my own for a couple of days.  Did I tell you they speak Chinese here?  

My first day alone I decided to take the Big Bus Tour around a portion of Shanghai.  You'll find the 'Big Bus' in most major European and Asian cities and they're a great way to get a lay of the land.  Narration is provided in multiple languages via headsets so you know what you're seeing, and you can hop on and hop off at various sites with a single ticket.   

Hubs was a little worried about me on my own that first day but I told him later that riding the bus and subway were way less dangerous than crossing the street in front of the hotel.  The traffic!  As my grandma would say, land sakes alive...there were cars and buses and bicycles crossing every which way.  Even with the walk sign flashing green meaning go you better look twice before sticking so much as your big toe out into the street.  

And let's not forget the motorcycles which are absolutely everywhere....

...including racing up from behind you on the sidewalk!  

Is it legal to drive a motorcycle on the sidewalk in Shanghai?
Not sure, but overall the traffic laws felt a little 'loose' here.

I did do a lot of walking because you can't eat Xiaolongbao for lunch everyday without trying to burn off at least a few of the calories.  Our hotel was only about four long blocks from The Shanghai Museum and I spent several hours inside this lovely building one day.

Now I need to make a small observation.  Americans.  I love you but goodness you're a loud bunch.  Not all of you of course and yes, I'm a proud American too, except when I'm in a super quiet, slightly darkened Chinese museum where Westerners are few and far between yet I can hear you talking and laughing from three stories up.  Makes me want to don my British accent and pretend we're not kin.  There is something about the American tourist that screams look at me.  I mean this in the nicest possible way of course, after all, I'm an American tourist too...its just that a group I encountered in the museum made me want to whip out my teacher voice and say 'simmer down kids'.  Only they weren't kids, they were adults.

When we lived in the UK we were advised by the higher ups, aka the Embassy peeps, to try to blend in a bit.  Not to call undue attention to ourselves.  Not to stomp all over the local customs and way of life.  It's a good piece of advice, not only from the standpoint of personal safety, but also as representatives of our own nation.  I'm not saying we shouldn't feel pride in our own country, but as visitors we should also take the time to look around and notice the local custom...be gracious 'houseguests'.  We were in an outdoor restaurant in Greece one time and as the waiter was taking our order he said 'here come the Americans'.  Sure enough, around the corner came a group of about six adults.  We asked how he knew they were American and he said you can always hear them before you see them.  That and their brand new tennis shoes but mostly its the fact that they announce their arrival.    We are an enthusiastic people and normally that's a good thing...a great thing even.  In fact it's one of my favorite things  about this country we call home, but in the hushed environment of a Chinese museum the mega-volume felt very out of place.

Okay, off my soapbox...the museum itself was a gorgeous piece of architecture.  My favorite display was the room filled with ethnic costumes from all the different regions around China.

Well,  that and the pottery of course. 

If you read here you know how I feel about pottery.  

While I'm on the subject of museums I have a fun little 'museum anecdote' to share.  The Shanghai Art Museum was just across the street from our hotel so I popped inside to browse there too. The building itself was stunning (clock tower in the foreground of the photo below)  and used to be the clubhouse for the Shanghai Race Club race course.  

It houses art now and a special exhibit was on display, the beautiful ink paintings of a well known Chinese artist named Liu Yiyuan.  Before I left the exhibit I stopped to read his bio which was posted on the wall and I snapped a picture so I'd remember his name.  As I was taking the picture a man tapped me on the shoulder and I turned around to find myself standing face to face with the artist himself.  We did a little pantomime, which you should know is my preferred method of communicating in China, and he pointed at the bio and at himself and smiled and nodded his head vigorously to be sure I understood.  And I nodded and smiled and said his work was beautiful which I think he understood because all of a sudden he puts a book in my hands.  It was a book of his paintings and he's still nodding and smiling and pointing and then he flips the book over, autographs it, and presses it into my arms.  

There were loads of people in the museum and I'm not sure why he chose to give me the book.  It may have been because I was the lone American or perhaps it was because I took an interest in his story.  When I told hubs later he said it was my red coat.   Whatever the reason it was a happy surprise and I was reminded once more why I love travel.   

D is for Dumpling

Moving right along....but before we move right along let me add a p.s. to yesterday's post.  It would have made a lot of sense to actually post pics of the coats but I received the finished products, tucked them in my suitcase and moved on to the next leg of our journey which was Taiwan. No need for a cashmere coat or a rain jacket in warm sunny Taipei but I did snap this picture today to satisfy your curiosity.  

I hope my photography instructor isn't visiting here today.  In my defense my hall is super sunny and I'm jet lagged. 

Now, on to today's A-Z challenge...D is for dumpling.  Or as they say in Shanghai,  Xiaolongbao.  I wish I had a nickel for every time my hubs said that word.  It's a fun word to say.   I'll tell you upfront that I encountered a couple of food items I might not order again, but this was not one of them.   D is also for delicious!  

Xiaolongbao is a type of 'bun' steamed in a bamboo basket.  Not a great picture but we were mid meal when we remembered to take a photo. Xiaolongbao is a popular dish and I think there's some variation depending on which part of China you're in.  A Chinese friend there said I could think of it kind of as their hamburger since its essentially meat on the inside and starch on the outside.  Nearly everyone in Shanghai dines on Xiaolongbao for lunch or dinner.    The 'dumplings' are traditionally filled with pork but we also had some filled with pork and shrimp and my favorite, pork and crab. 

Time to make the donuts dumplings...

I was advised to look around before I started eating as some of the customs are quite different than what we're used to.  Chinese food in China involves dexterity with your chopsticks and slurping and lots of bones that are, to put it bluntly, gnawed on to get the meat and then deposited on the table.  In the U.S. we don't typically serve soups with bones in the broth but this is their custom and its fun to just go with the flow when it comes to food in foreign countries.  Consider that today's travel tip.  

The way to eat a dumpling is to grab it with your chopstick in one hand while holding it over a spoon held in your other hand.   Ever so carefully you bite into the dumpling which allows some of the nuclear hot steam to escape and prevents you burning your mouth.  Besides the meat filling there is a wonderful broth inside and this drips into the spoon so you don't miss a drop.  Nor do you want to.  Again, it would be nice to have great photos but we were too busy enjoying our meal.  

We also ordered this traditional soup one afternoon.  Its essentially broth and 'some other ingredients' encased in a dumpling.  They stick a straw in it and mark the straw with a flag that says CAUTION HOT,  which is a gross understatement.    Just a word here about 'other ingredients'...sometimes it was enough to know we were eating 'meat and broth' or 'fish and broth'.  Hearing the specifics before tasting might cause me to rethink my selection.   I'm going to write more about food in later posts.  

I do want you to know however, that I can now pick up a small round peanut with a chopstick.  Or a teeny tiny shrimp? coated in a mysterious slippery sauce.  Its true what they say about practice making perfect.   

C is for China, duh.

I'm too tired to come up with a witty something or other for my post title. China works, right? I've started weeding thru my photos, which may possibly exceed 1000 in number, and if I'm going to wrap this up in 26 days I best get to talking.

C is for China, more specifically, Shanghai.

Uh-may-zing.

That's amazing in Chinese.

Not really. I don't speak Chinese. But the people in Shanghai do. We hear quite often that no matter where in this world you go everybody speaks English but no, they don't. America is an enormous country which makes it easy to forget that the whole world doesn't see us as the center of their universe. I think it's good to step off the continent every once in a while and view things from another perspective.

If Mandarin isn't your native tongue and you've somehow mastered it along the way then you deserve a gold star. I know non-English speakers will say English is the most difficult language to learn but I have to think Mandarin is right up there.

I'm rambling. The trip was just so much everything. Sights, sounds, smells...how do I capture the smells in words? I want to remember all of it~the overpowering aroma of the lily and the powerful scent of dried fish that waft under your nose in equal measure on the Shanghai breeze. Okay, maybe not in equal measure because that dried fish is whoa!

Your head buzzes with the raucous sounds of city life and market mayhem and relaxes in the serene quiet of afternoon tea sipped in the hotel lobby. Your eyes take in bolt upon bolt of brightly colored fabric in the soft materials mart and the smoky sooty air that hangs heavy over the largest city in China. Every one of your senses are alternately assaulted and inspired. You don't always know which way to look. There is big grand magnificent architecture combined with delicate detail at every turn.

I loved Shanghai. It may have been my favorite part of the trip. For starters we stayed in the JW Marriott there and I love the JW's. The lobby and breakfast area were on the 38th floor and our room was on the 54th. The views in this city are incredible. A chronic haze hangs over Shanghai, a combination of humidity and pollution but it gives the skyline a dreamy quality.

fyi-I'm going to need a thesaurus for these Asia posts because I'm pretty sure there's a limit as to how many times you're allowed to use the words incredible and amazing in a series of posts.

Since we're all about the letter C today and I'm struggling to figure out how to break down the trip I'm going to tell you about one of the first things we did upon landing...we went to see the tailor. Priorities people! I had two coats made while we were in town. Essentially we landed in Shanghai, got checked into our hotel, and then met up with a local co-worker of the hubs who escorted us to the soft spinning materials market someplace in the city. Incidentally I spent most of the two weeks away having no idea where I was. Some things are universal-ha! Thank goodness for skyscrapers that served as landmarks.

I did learn my first Mandarin word(s) straightaway. Thank you. It's xie xie but is pronounced shay-shay. More or less. Its fun to say and it came in handy as I needed lots of help navigating my way around Shanghai.

Back to the market...you step inside a building that is several stories high and each floor contains at least 100 vendor stalls, and each one of these little stalls is chock-a-block full of fabric and dress forms and people trying to sell you a suit-coat-jacket-scarf-tie-or belt. They recognize the Westerners of course and shout, 'Hey lady, you wanna buy a coat?'

Well, now that you mention it, yes I think I do.

Two please.

We were headed to a particular stall although how this one was selected out of the hundred+ others I haven't a clue. All I know is we needed to see Mary. She's a whiz with a needle and thread and we stepped into her closet sized stall and scanned the options. Before you could say Bob's your uncle (or the Chinese equivalent of that expression) I was being measured for a custom made coat and rain jacket. This was on a Monday afternoon and she said they'd be ready on Friday. Five days. It seemed ludicrous, but still we negotiated the price because that's just what you do in Shanghai. Another co-worker from the states was traveling with us and she also had a raincoat made plus a suit for work. Making three coats and a suit in five days was just another day at the office for Mary and we were not her only customers.

I'm not certain I can do justice to all the shopping in Asia. At one point in the week we ventured into a building five stories high containing over 1000 stalls, and every single stall sold only eyeglasses. Five stories packed full of nothing but eyeglasses. How in the world do you decide which vendor to use? Evidently word of mouth is key because again, when we went into this building with a local co-worker he took us to a shop in the middle of the building that he's dealt with before. Need a cell phone? There's an 11-story building full of nothing but. Same goes for shoes, bags, watches, and electronics. It absolutely boggles the mind.

By the way...the shopping?

Well let's just say it ain't all market stalls.

Not by a long shot.

My head was spinning a lot a little following the coat purchase because you can only look at so much fabric without everything starting to look the same so we placed our order and headed to dinner.

The food.

Now that's a whole 'nother post for sure.