Friday, September 27, 2024

York-Day Two

Continuing my recap of our road trip to York, which will now be three posts instead of two. I have pictures and they all need to go somewhere. 

Maybe not all, but many. 

We started the day Tuesday with breakfast in Middlethorpe's gorgeous dining room. So civilized. China cups and a small silver coffee pot on our table. No styrofoam. No shouting. 

Small jars of jam with a little silver serving spoon, a silver toast server, a very quiet space...so lovely.

After breakfast we walked the garden and grounds around the hotel. They know how to trim hedges in this country. 

These beauties were growing right outside our entry-

Clemson colors so I had to snap a pic. 

Middlethorpe Hall was built for Thomas Barlow who was a prosperous master cutler. I had to look up the word cutler, but basically it is someone who makes cutlery. 

One thing travel shows you is there is a lot you don't know. 

Middlethorpe was also once the home of the famous diarist, Lady Mary Wortley Montague who is said to be one of the most remarkable women of the 18th century. 

She was a writer and poet and campaigned for the introduction of smallpox inoculation in the UK. 

Later it was the family home of Fanny Rollo Wilkinson who was the first female professional landscape gardener in England. Living here was partly what inspired her to pursue 'gardening' as a career. 

After our walk we left Middlethorpe Hall and drove about fifteen miles north to beautiful Castle Howard. 

You may recognize the facade from the film Brideshead Revisited, the Netflix series Bridgerton where the house doubled as the Duke of Hasting's country home, and the ITV drama Victoria where the house doubled as Kensington Palace. 

Construction of Castle Howard began in 1699 but took over 100 years to complete, spanning the lifetimes of three Earls. 

The final appearance of the house bears only a partial resemblance to the original vision and it suffered significant damage during a fire that occurred in 1940. 

The fire started in a chimney and quickly spread, destroying rooms in the basement, the main and upper levels, as well as the incredible dome which collapsed into the Great Hall. It wasn't until 1960 that the dome was rebuilt, and then thanks to the filming of Brideshead Revisited, the Garden Hall was also rebuilt. 

Most of these homes have their own chapel, and this is the one in Castle Howard-

As you stroll the grounds of these amazing properties you cannot help but think about the cost of  maintaining so much land, so many old buildings with their old wiring, old plumbing, and antiquated systems of heating, as well as valuable works of art that need protecting and care. 

I'm sure it's the main reason they open family homes to the public for a fee and we get to enjoy visiting. 

Also, these places need constant dusting. Can you imagine? 

We toured the house then walked the grounds which are extensive.

 Lots of footpaths through the woods, and a path to the lake which leads you to a boathouse (now cafe). 

We enjoyed a cuppa beside the water before heading back into York city center to walk the walls. 

Walking around atop the walls of a city is something I love to do when given the chance. 

As we were making our way to the wall we passed the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey-St. Mary's, first built in 1088. It was at one time one of the most prosperous abbeys in Northern England, and the original church on this site was founded in 1055, dedicated to Saint Olaf. 

St. Mary's was started by William the Conqueror to reinforce his hold on the north and ended by Henry the VIII as a consequence of his reformation of the church. 

Today you can see remains of the walls of the nave, where the monks prayed and sang, and the cloister where they washed their clothes and were allowed to speak. 

As we headed toward the stairwell hubs, with his eagle eye, spotted a gentleman standing with his wife and daughter, wearing a hat from our local hometown hockey team. Always fun to see a little reminder of home. We spoke briefly and I continue to marvel at what a small big world it really is. 

We climbed the stairs to the top of the wall and walked for a while before noticing a beautiful garden just below. We headed down to get a closer look and ended up going inside the property (Gray's Court Hotel). The weather wasn't quite as perfect as their garden, but the inside was lovely too, so we had some bubbly and a pint because hey, we're on holiday. 

Grays' Court was built on the site of a Roman fortress and has been continuously occupied since the 11th century-1091. Not as a hotel of course, but there's been something happening in this spot for close to 1000 years. 

Old takes on a whole new meaning on this side of the pond. 

Thursday, September 26, 2024

Oh The Grand Old Duke Of York...

 'He had ten thousand men, he marched them up to the top of the hill and marched them down again...' 

Who remembers this nursery rhyme? We used to sing it as a song at summer camp way back when, and as you sang the word up you had to jump up from your seat, and when you sang down everyone sat back down. 

We might not have marched to the top of the hill but we definitely climbed some serious steps on our recent visit to the city of York. We spent two nights in York so rather than my usual way of blogging I will resist jamming all the doings into a single post, and make this a two-parter. 

Hubs and I knew we wanted a little mid-trip getaway while visiting our daughter. We had gobs of visitors when we lived in the UK, and it was always nice when those staying more than a few days took a little side trip somewhere in the middle and allowed us to regroup at home. 

Also, we viewed this trip as an anniversary celebration even though our anniversary was in the middle of June. 40 years needs more than a passing mention and we knew we wanted to do something a little bit special. We decided to go to York for a couple of days because a) it's a reasonable drive from Cambridge (less than three hours), b) it's a city we never got to when we lived here, and c) it's dubbed the most romantic city in England so happy anniversary to us. 

We left Cambridge in the pouring rain Monday morning and made it to York around noon. We were unfamiliar with the city geography and it took a minute to figure out which car park made sense, how to get to that car park, and then how to pay at that car park. 

Once parking was sorted we headed straight for York Minster, one of the world's most beautiful cathedrals. 

If you read the cathedral's own website it tells you this place was 'built for the glory of God'. That every aspect of this ancient building 'from the handcrafted stone to the collection of medieval stained glass tells the story of Jesus Christ'. 

Do we build for that reason anymore? 

Not on the scale of York Minster, that's for certain. 

One thought that lodges in your mind when you wander in and out of so many ancient castles and cathedrals is the care and sheer effort that went into the design and construction. Most times these cathedrals took decades to complete, centuries even, so the original architect, stone masons, glass glaziers, etc. were long gone by the time the church was actually finished. Still they took that care because they knew what they were building was for the glory of God. 

I will never get over the beautiful architecture in this country. 

You can climb the central tower in the cathedral here, once you sign off on the medical waiver and take a few deep breaths and look around and think to yourself if that man with a bit of a beer belly can do it so can you, and then you're off. 

Up. And slowly because it's 275 steps on a medieval stone spiral staircase that is 24 inches wide most of the way up. 

Deep breaths. 

You climb something like 150 steps to start and then you come out into the glorious daylight to walk across a narrow path that feels a lot like scaffolding, and then on into the second staircase for the remaining 125 steps to the top. 

Freedom! 

Deep breaths. 

Hubs enjoyed the climb but wasn't crazy about the sensation up top. It was really windy and it felt like you could topple right over the edge. I was just happy to be breathing fresh air. 

The views from up top are amazing and it was worth the climb. 

You repeat the journey back down and then you go find yourselves a pub for a pint and a shared plate of Yorkshire sausages.

We wandered around the quaint cobbled streets and peeked in some shops before making our way back to the carpark and on to our hotel. 


Our hotel-

Swoon! 

We stayed in Middlethorpe Hall and Spa, a William the III country house set on 20 gorgeous acres about three miles outside the York city centre. 

It was built in 1699 and is one of only three Historic House Hotels of the National Trust. 

We rested for a while then headed to the dining room. First though, a cocktail in the lounge...

I'm a fan of all the little touches like silver spoons and cocktail picks, fine china, a garden view, old paintings, and old English houses in general. 

We were escorted in to dinner and enjoyed a three course meal. The food was so beautiful and we savored every bite. I very discreetly snapped some pictures. 

We were first served an 'amuse-bouche'...a zucchini arancini and a crab spread. Next we had the halibut with a coconut lemongrass bisque that was so delicious I wanted to pick up the bowl and drink every last drop.

 I didn't but I wanted to. 

For the main I had salmon with watercress, horseradish, and yuzu which was super scrumptious, and hubs had the Yorkshire duck with plum, pistachio, honey and daikon. 

Dessert was Annabel's strawberries with champagne, elderflower, and verbena. 

This was served chilled and it was wonderful. Annabel's is a Yorkshire strawberry farm so a true farm to table dish. 

After dinner we walked back to our room and called it a night. Come back tomorrow so I can tell you all about breakfast lol. Other stuff too, but breakfast deserves a mention. 

And yes, this was me not jamming everything in to a single post. 

Tuesday, September 24, 2024

The Hodgepodge In Autumn

Welcome back to another edition of the weekly Wednesday Hodgepodge. If you've answered today's questions add your link at the end of my post, then go say howdy to your neighbor there before you run off. Here we go-

From this Side of the Pond
1. It's officially fall y'all...in the northern hemisphere anyway. What are three of your favorite things about this particular season of the year? 

Fall is my favorite and there's really nothing I dislike about the season. Three favorites would be 1.- the light this time of year-it's golden, 2-the color-gem tones are my favorite and this season is filled with dark greens, brilliant reds, bright golds, and deep oranges, all of which I love and 3.- wearing jeans and boots after months of shorts and flip flops. I'm always ready for the change in wardrobe. 

2. Your favorite fall fabric-denim, flannel, tweed, corduroy, tartan, polar fleece, leather? Do you own something made with your favorite fall fabric? 

Well I do love a good fleece. Such a cozy fabric and I love mine and sort of live in it this time of year. That being said, denim is probably my favorite. A soft, well-loved, comfy pair of jeans is my favorite thing to wear any time of year. 

3. According to Everyday Health here are ten healthy fall foods- apples (flavonoids may improve brain health), pears (for heart friendly fiber), cranberries (helps your body fight oxidative stress) winter squash (for eye health), pumpkin (another great source of Vitamin A), leeks (an anti-inflammatory food), brussel sprouts (full of fiber and anti-oxidants), sweet potatoes (loaded with Vit A and C), parsnips (keep your bones healthy with Vit K), and broccoli (may help prevent cancer). 

How many on the list do you eat on a regular basis? Which one is your favorite? Which one gets a big no thanks from you? 

I love all of these and eat almost all of them on a regular basis. There are none on the list I'd say no to. I wouldn't say I eat parsnips or pumpkin regularly, but we do have those foods now and then, and I especially like parsnips.

It's impossible to pick just one favorite, but if you make me choose I'll say cranberries, with apples a close second. 

4. Tell us about the last time (or a recent time) you experienced a wave of nostalgia? 

Nostalgia almost always hits me in the form of a song played or a scent that floats in with a breeze...it's that almost indescribable feeling that makes me wistful for days gone by. 

I'm in England right now, and I definitely felt something like nostalgia standing in front of my old house last week. I could almost see my girls sitting at the kitchen table, French doors open to the garden, homework on the table. 

Do I want to go back? No. Is it sweet to remember? Absolutely. 

5. Sept. 22nd was National Daughter's Day. Like mother, like daughter...does this idiom ring true for you? You may answer in terms of your own role as a daughter or, if you have daughters, then your role as a mother of daughters. 

Yes, both directions actually. I am my mother's daughter and am very much like her in so many ways. I wrote a post quite a while back about this very thing-One Of These Things Is A Lot Like The Other. 

My own daughters are also a lot like me, particularly when it comes to how we all mother. My younger daughter is pretty much my mini-me in most ways and I wrote a post about that too, for her birthday one year-And The Seasons They Go Round And Round. 

My mom, my girls, and me...we all love homemaking, baking, books, babies, and Jesus. We're all tender-hearted, family-oriented, and a tad bit stubborn, or as I like to say-determined. 

6. Insert your own random thought here. 

Spent part of Tuesday here-

York Minster Cathedral

In a word...magnificent. 

Happy Wednesday everyone! 

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Monday, September 23, 2024

Hodgepodge Questions-Volume 570

It's that time again. Here are the questions to the weekly Wednesday Hodgepodge. Answer on your own blog, then hop back here tomorrow to share answers with all your friends and neighbors. See you there! 

1. It's officially fall y'all...in the northern hemisphere anyway. What are three of your favorite things about this particular season of the year? 

2. Your favorite fall fabric-denim, flannel, tweed, corduroy, tartan, polar fleece, leather? Do you own something made with your favorite fall fabric? 

3. According to Everyday Health here are ten healthy fall foods- apples (flavonoids may improve brain health), pears (for heart friendly fiber), cranberries (helps your body fight oxidative stress) winter squash (for eye health), pumpkin (another great source of Vitamin A), leeks (an anti-inflammatory food), brussel sprouts (full of fiber and anti-oxidants), sweet potatoes (loaded with Vit A and C), parsnips (keep your bones healthy with Vit K), and broccoli (may help prevent cancer). 

How many on the list do you eat on a regular basis? Which one is your favorite? Which one gets a big no thanks from you? 

4. Tell us about the last time (or a recent time) you experienced a wave of nostalgia? 

5. Sept. 22nd was National Daughter's Day. Like mother, like daughter...does this idiom ring true for you? You may answer in terms of your own role as a daughter or, if you have daughters, then your role as a mother of daughters. 

6. Insert your own random thought here.